Jewelry Design is the creative process of envisioning and realizing an original piece of jewelry. This unique art form is a fusion of the fine arts, engineering and technical processes. It requires an in-depth understanding of a wide range of disciplines, including the principles of geometry, color theory, balance and proportion. GIA’s jewelry design courses teach these essential skills as well as advanced techniques like filigree, granulation and casting.
Proportion deals with the relative size of different elements within a composition. Proper proportion is important in jewelry design as it helps create pieces that are aesthetically pleasing and comfortable to wear. For example, a ring’s central gemstone should be proportional to the width of its metal band. The use of contrasting colors and textures can also highlight distinctive gems or design elements. Emphasis, the intentional highlighting of certain elements within a jewelry piece to draw attention, can be achieved through contrasting color or texture, directional lines and dramatic slopes or peaks.
Color is one of the most powerful elements in jewelry design and can be used to convey a variety of emotions and moods. For instance, rich jewel tones can evoke feelings of luxury or wealth while muted pastels may suggest elegance or serenity. The contrast between smooth, polished metal and rough, uncut stones can accentuate the beauty of both the metal and the gemstones.
Rhythm is the repetition or progression of a motif to establish visual movement in a piece of jewelry. For example, alternating gemstones and plain bands in a ring establishes a rhythm. Strategic changes in rhythm can express energy and excitement.
Designing a piece of jewelry often involves iteration and open-ended experimentation. The free-spirited nature of many gemstones dictates the styling of the final piece, with the designer determining whether it should be worn in a ring, necklace or bracelet, and the size of the stone determines its placement on the body. This kind of back-and-forth is an inherent part of the design process, and some designers find it more effective to plan every detail carefully or to fly by the seat of their pants.
There’s a lot of brilliant jewelry being produced by independent designers with small lines. But unless they can tap into the right capital to penetrate jewelry retail, they won’t get the exposure they deserve. In the meantime, some jewelry makers have stumbled upon fun ways to translate children’s scribbles into precious metals. For example, Kirsty Stone of Los Angeles-based Retrouvai crafted a signet ring last year that features her three daughters’ names in script written by her youngest daughter, four-year-old Violet. The result is a piece that’s as personal as it is striking. It’s a beautiful reminder that the magic of jewelry design isn’t just for adults.
